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Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many

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It’s a vegetable that has an elegant and delicate flavour at odds with its appearance – a dark, earthy root, long and slender, enclosed in a covering of bark echoing the barren, bleak silhouettes of trees in the thrall of winter.

The Dundee-born chef, who’s been at Quo Vadis restaurant in London’s Soho since 2012, has helped shape contemporary British cooking. Jeremy had previously manned the stoves of Blueprint Café on the first floor of the Design Museum, which Sir Terence Conran created on the south bank of the River Thames near Tower Bridge. In a bowl whisk the cider vinegar and 2 teaspoons of caster sugar until the sugar dissolves, then add the mustard and whisk until smooth. A striking dish with the pale green sauce pooled in the plate, contrasting with the delicate silvered skin of the hake. When Jeremy Lee received the very first copy of his new cookbook from his publishers, he immediately threw it in a drawer, then cycled from his home in east London to get on with his day at Soho’s Quo Vadis, where he is chef-patron.The word “mezcla” means “mix” or “blend” in Spanish, and it’s a term that aptly describes the author’s background and cooking style.

Cooks being naturally curious creatures, we’re always excited to explore and to try different things. I'm looking forward to getting a lot of use out of this book plus it's a perfect one to gift to foodies. Books on baking continue to woo cookbook lovers, too – two books from blogger and baker Jane Dunn ( Jane’s Patisserie: Celebrate! Divide into two, wrapping one half tightly in greaseproof paper for use another day, storing in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 3-4 months.Mayan gold and yukon gold potatoes cook a treat in this recipe, king edwards work very well, and good results were also enjoyed with baking and roasting potatoes. Fans of Yotam Ottolenghi may already be familiar with the author’s name, as Belfrage worked at NOPI and at Ottolenghi’s Test Kitchen, and co-authored Flavour with the chef and restaurateur in 2020. Cooking is the much anticipated first cook book from Jeremy Lee, celebrated head chef at London's Quo Vadis. The book, Cooking: Simply And Well, For One or Many, was the result of many years of work, on and off, and he wasn’t quite ready to face its reality. Regular visitors to the restaurant, Quo Vadis, will find some of their favourite dishes in Jeremy’s book illustrated with wit and pen by John Broadley plus photographs by Elena Heatherwick.

Compotes, fools, poached in wine, baked with vanilla or caramelised and served up with ice cream, cream or custard. Lee’s delicious prose is like a long, slow braise, making this is a cookbook that doubles as bedside reading. This refreshing book might just make anyone who’s sceptical about eating vegan food re-think plant-based cooking.

Letting the salsify cool in the water, then rolling it in leaves of brick pastry, liberally buttered, seasoned and generously strewn with finely grated Parmesan, then baked crisp in a hot oven, makes an excellent little something hot with drinks or as a starter at table.

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