3 Pieces Eraser Erasing Shield Template Metal Stainless Steel Drawing Shield Drafting Tool

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Step 1: press and lift (do not rub) with a putty rubber until no more comes off, folding the collected colour inside the rubber. How it performed: Fine on light graphite lines and same as the others on coloured pencil. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. It lifted a bit more watercolour paint than the others but didn’t erase the graphite at all so was bad at that task. Another element in deciding what eraser to use is the kind of paper and type of medium you want to erase. If it’s coloured pencil or ink, then a rubber eraser containing abrasive silica particles is most likely to succeed. Once again, remove any excess pigment first with a putty or kneaded eraser.

a. Rubber erasers (they used to be made of natural rubber and now some are synthetic rubber)- middle in the scale of firmness. A few contain abrasives like pumice – but those are usually just the rhomboid-shaped school erasers. The abrasives are designed to erase biro ink. Rubber erasers feel a bit powdery to the touch and this bothers some people a great deal. It’s not always easy to tell some synthetic rubber erasers from plastic erasers if they don’t say anywhere, in that case, I go by the powdery feel. I like these but found the brushes on the ends weren’t very good, for a small area a soft paintbrush works better and for a large one a dusting brush is better. Staedtler Combi Mars Plastic Eraser White & Blue– (two sides – one for graphite and coloured pencils and the other for ink) (phthalate and latex free)b. Gum erasers (also called art gum erasers) – Designed to crumble very easily as they collect up the graphite so they do less damage to the paper. But since they crumble away they don’t last as long. Very soft. c. Plastic/vinyl erasers– the firmest eraser. The most popular eraser, these modern erasers usually give the most complete removal of graphite. If you are like me the word ‘plastic’ might make you think they wouldn’t work well, I mean you can’t erase with any of the other plastic items on your table, right. But you need to remember two things: plastics come in a huge variety of formulas and also ‘plastic’ can means ‘pliable’ as in ‘the plastic arts’ meaning sculpture. Many plastic erasers come with paper sleeves that you can use to hold the rubber. ‘Dustless’ means that the eraser residue particles clump together for more complete removal, leaving fewer tiny particles that are actually still on the paper but you don’t see… until you take a close-up photo. They can be heat-moulded into many shapes, both for finger grips and for sharp edges that allow the erasure of fine lines.

First kneading: the hardest one, almost impossible like trying to tear a plastic eraser apart, never even tore into pieces, never got smooth or held together, was a lot of work, I made a usable piece by twisting a small portion at a time. Second kneading of small piece next day: hard. You can carve into firm erasers to create a printing stamp similar to lino cutting but with the carved eraser you can print just by pressing down, like a rubber stamp. Phthalates are a chemical additive that makes plastic pliable (like a squeeze bottle) instead of hard (like the keys on your keyboard). There is more and more evidence that this chemical group affects the human body in negative ways as phthalates interrupt the hormonal system. Many brands of erasers have stopped using them. These plasticisers are in many plastics we use every day, I think they are of particular concern in rubbers because rubbers crumble and this must help expose more of the chemical to the air and skin.First kneading: very smoothly, a bit like chewing gum, was easy to start, easy to knead, held together very well. Very soft. Second kneading of small piece next day: gooey, very soft. Board clips are used to hold the drawing paper in position when drawing board is not available. They are designed to clip on to the edge of a table or portable timber board and hold the paper down firmly against the flat surface. (Drawing board or table) Diagram 12 – Drawing Board Clip As the name suggests, this is the ‘giant’ of the Milan family – the largest eraser of the collection. The eraser is made of soft synthetic rubber and it is suitable for removing strokes from graphite pencils on all kinds of surfaces. Because of its size (6.8 x 5.1 x 2.8 cm) we don’t recommend it for precision erasing.

The best method for removal of coloured pencil or a large amount of dark graphite is using a 2-step process. Faber Castell Latex Free Eraser, Cream and Grey, natural rubber (two sides: one for graphite and colour pencils and the other for ink.) Faber Castell Latex Free Eraser, Red and Blue (two sides: one for graphite and colour pencils and the other for ink.)

After thinking about the following questions I set out to see if testing would help me sort out the differences between erasers. Harder pencils can make grooves in the paper which cannot be erased.- It turns out that the hardness makes it hard to erase even when lightly applied. A circle template is used to draw circles of set diameters. They are particularly useful if the circle is to small to be able to use a compass. They are plastic with a number of accurate circles cut out. The circle template has its centers indicated at the edge of the circle. These are used to assist in locating the template accurately on your drawing. The diameter is selected and a sharp pencil is used to draw the circle or arc. Diagram 10 – Circle Template It is hard to erase graphite under a watercolour without damaging it. The best advice is to draw very faint lines you can barely see and when painted over they won’t show. Or let the graphite lines show a bit as part of the painting.

newcommand{\vecs}[1]{\overset { \scriptstyle \rightharpoonup} {\mathbf{#1}}}\) \( \newcommand{\vecd}[1]{\overset{-\!-\!\rightharpoonup}{\vphantom{a}\smash{#1}}} \)\(\newcommand{\id}{\mathrm{id}}\) \( \newcommand{\Span}{\mathrm{span}}\) \( \newcommand{\kernel}{\mathrm{null}\,}\) \( \newcommand{\range}{\mathrm{range}\,}\) \( \newcommand{\RealPart}{\mathrm{Re}}\) \( \newcommand{\ImaginaryPart}{\mathrm{Im}}\) \( \newcommand{\Argument}{\mathrm{Arg}}\) \( \newcommand{\norm}[1]{\| #1 \|}\) \( \newcommand{\inner}[2]{\langle #1, #2 \rangle}\) \( \newcommand{\Span}{\mathrm{span}}\) \(\newcommand{\id}{\mathrm{id}}\) \( \newcommand{\Span}{\mathrm{span}}\) \( \newcommand{\kernel}{\mathrm{null}\,}\) \( \newcommand{\range}{\mathrm{range}\,}\) \( \newcommand{\RealPart}{\mathrm{Re}}\) \( \newcommand{\ImaginaryPart}{\mathrm{Im}}\) \( \newcommand{\Argument}{\mathrm{Arg}}\) \( \newcommand{\norm}[1]{\| #1 \|}\) \( \newcommand{\inner}[2]{\langle #1, #2 \rangle}\) \( \newcommand{\Span}{\mathrm{span}}\)\(\newcommand{\AA}{\unicode[.8,0]{x212B}}\) The name rubber came from the material used to make the eraser. (The rubber plant got its name from the eraser and not the other way around). The sharpener revolves: it can be turned inwards so that it does not leak graphite dust through the blade aperture. To empty the pencil shavings from the (very small) reservoir, simply swing the sharpener outwards and pull it off the main unit.How it performed: Worked moderately well when rubbed or when pressed and lifted. Best on the light lines of graphite, not so well on the dark. Fine on press and lift for coloured pencil lightening. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. Removed the graphite under the watercolour with a bit more damage to the paint than the one above. Felt abrasive. First kneading: a bit stiff, had to twist it to get it to move, held together like gum except when I stretched it more than 2cm then would form fine threads that had little bits caught in it that fell out like snow, so I felt I was losing bits of the rubber. This was prevented by only using a twisting or pressing motion, not a stretching motion. Then it was fine. Second kneading of small piece next day: fine.