Games Workshop Citadel Shade: Drakenhof Nightshade

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Next up is my favorite yellow, Contrast Iyanden Yellow followed up with me just tidying up some happy little accidents with some Corax White before breaking out the Contrast Guilliman Flesh for the face and hands. Emma: Speaking of Nurgle, Poxwalker is a Shade perfect for everything gross and green. It’s has grey tones, making it perfect for dying or dead flesh – such as Deadwalker Zombies . I also used this for the skin of Orks and Kruleboyz , as it gives a great worn green shade to their skin. If you find yourself unsure of where to apply the highlights or spot highlights, look over the images alongside the guide and compare that stage to the last.

Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html Each model is split up into 4 stages, each with a list of colours and the corresponding paint that was used for it. Each stage uses a different technique to achieve a similar effect on each element but with different colours.As a versatile wash, Drakenhof Nightshade can be used to paint a variety of armies in the Warhammer 40K universe. Here are three armies that could benefit from the use of Drakenhof Nightshade in their painting process: The Citadel Colour paint range gets a truly blue Shade, which works wonderfully with colours such as Caledor Sky on the cloaks and capes of the Lumineth Realm-lords . The Citadel Colour paint wizards have also created seven new Shade paints, adding even more options to your toolkit alongside perennial favourites like Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade . Here’s Emma to provide her expert advice on using these new tools.

Repeat what was done in Step 1.5 over the apothecary white, be prepared to do a lot of layers though. The image above was taken after about 4 layers of white and you can still see how blotchy his right leg is, but as I’m lazy we’ll just cover the area with some markings rather than do more layers of white. Step 3 Credit: Richyp

All of the new Shade paints are excellent, and the reformulation of the existing range makes adding natural-looking depth and shadow easier than ever before. Take into account the 25 new Contrast paints and the new White Scar spray, and we’re sure you’ll agree there’s never been a better time to be a painter. Extergimus: Three Reaver swaps here drops the average cost of the maniple down to a little over 900 points, meaning you can take all of your mandatory elements and still have room to shove in a bonus Warlord or Warbringer at 1500 points. On top of that, the Extergimus trait is legitimately interesting on Reavers, as they’ve got just enough reactor space to be able to use the maniple trait when it counts as well as plenty of weapons that can make effective use of it to push their weapons’ strength through the roof. This week, we’re looking at Legio Venator, the now-displaced Titan Legion hailing from the Forge World Arachnus. They’ve got an interesting kit that rewards clever play and honestly takes some finesse to get the most out of, but which can really come through if you set it up correctly. After basecoating I wash the red with Carroburg Crimson, then re-apply Mephiston Red to the non-recessed feathers and the skull. After that I edge highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet. You don’t need to do this part, but it really makes a huge difference. Credit: OhDearGodNo Credit: OhDearGodNo

I also have a Mix of 60% Nuln Oil, 40% Drakenhof Nightshade, which is used for pinwashing (recess shading) the white. Credit: OhDearGodNo Emma: A nice light green Shade with a hint of yellow, Kroak Green looks great over light greens, whites, yellows, and even cream colours. I loved using it on some Tree-Revenant’s spirit skin where I wanted more of a green hue over the pale teal, just to tie it into the forest tones used elsewhere. Try it over all manner of other greeny things – it’s also especially good for Nurgle miniatures.Aside from that, my suggestion... just try it! It's all experimentation. Essentially, the two caveats are that white is not easy to make look great, and you have the additional difficulty of models staining easily afterwards as game pieces (dirty or greasy fingers show up a lot), but if you're cool with that, finished models can look amazing. Just be prepared to be patient, as some aspects of white, like covering errant brush strokes or getting a smooth finish can be frustrating as no brand of white acrylic paint covers well. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf http://www.wargamesfoundry.com - also do a range of similar to Citadel paints, will update when can get chance. Now I’ll just map out my previous techniques onto the parts of the model which repeat textures found earlier in my tutorials: Painting White Scars can be done many ways, and there are a lot of good resources out there that involve everything from the GW layer method to dipping and now contrast. This method will require an airbrush, so if you don’t have one I’d recommend looking at a different tutorial.