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The psychobilly culture also spawned a t-shirt industry, particularly featuring bands such as King Kurt, The Meteors and The Cramps. They would often be cut down, removing the sleeves and side seams.
After World War I, the flapper movement took hold, offering more masculine, corset- free clothes for liberated women. World War II promoted Rosie the Riveters. During each war, economic times were tight, and women filled men’s roles while they went off to fight: War begat feminism. And often the children of feminists were raised as tomboys. The dungaree was first brought to light in 17 th century India where the cloth used for making cheap, robust working clothes was called ‘Dungri,’ the Hindi name of the Indian village which produced this hardwearing fabric. By default when the English bought the cloth to make workwear trousers they took the name ‘Dungri’ and added a British twist naming the fabric, ‘dungaree. ‘Here are more big hairdos from the Alcoholic Rats ladies, who demonstrate that cable knits were big in the 80s too! Blue hair and blue eyeliner – a great combo! From the ‘40s onwards, dungarees have maintained their status as fashionable garments for both men and women. With minor variations in cut and shape throughout the last 80 years, it’s difficult to think of a decade where dungarees weren’t in style for at least a few years! As a style that has well and truly stood the test of time, we think that dungarees make a great addition to anyone’s wardrobe. They’re so easy to dress up or down, and it is this versatility that makes them ideal for transeasonal dressing - pair them with your favourite vintage tee in the warmer months, or layer over a chunky jumper when it’s colder outside! In the photo below, Rich has painted band names onto his jeans with bleach! He’s also wearing the classic 80s Alien helmet. Dungarees were the uniform of 17th century sailors and other manual workers due to their utilitarian design and durable denim material. Throughout the 20th century, the overalls became a retro fashion statement.
Indeed. Trying dungarees again, I was wary of looking like an ancient toddler and relieved to find these new styles have definitely been designed for grown-ups. Take one of the versions from H&M. Made of leather with harem pants and shiny metal loops on the ankle, it's definitely not for kids. Oasis's denim Garnet emerges as the clear winner though – the higher waist makes them far more flattering than traditional dungarees. Buying wardrobe staples now and keeping them for years is something that we believe in wholeheartedly at Joanie, which is why all of the dungaree styles that we design are made with a hint of stretch for comfort and to ensure that you get the most wear out of them!Throughout that period, skinhead fashion was popular too, often featuring a double denim look with smart Ben Sherman shirt or Fred Perry and Doc Martens. For a smarter occasion they’d wear tonic suits, with DM shoes, and fishnet tights (for skin girls, not boys!). As we often didn’t have waterproofs, on a wet rally we would improvise with bin liners! The photo below was taken at Great Yarmouth in 1984, where our tent flooded and we had the prospect of a 200 mile ride home in pouring rain. I think the expression on Sarah’s face says it all! Baby boomers, the first generation raised with highly gendered young kids’ clothes, the first real taste of the pink/blue divide, now became members of the procreating counter-culture, poised to reject the gender stratification that had been imposed on them. Some partook of “nonsexist parenting,” the idea that girls deserved parity with boys and access to their worlds. Raising daughters to reject gender roles meant deliberately rearing a generation of tomboys. Those aren’t necessarily tomboys,” I replied. “That’s just how lots of girls dressed in the 1970s and early ’80s.”
Toys followed the same pattern. Less than 2 percent of the toys in those catalogs were marketed to a specific gender in the seventies. There were lots of toy ads showing girls as doctors and pilots (though not with boys as ballet dancers and nurses). Science- and domestic-themed toys were sold in many colors, with images of boys and girls in ads working and playing together. Dungri cloth was often dyed an indigo-blue colour, and though some sources cite this as an early version of denim, the method of production and qualities of the fabric mean that it wouldn’t look like the denim that we wear today! But she had to fight to feature girls prominently in the ads. “It’s not just boys,” she told LEGO executives. “Girls do it, too.” Over time, the name dungaree began to refer more to the style of overalls than the fabric itself. The first reference to dungarees as an item of clothing rather than a fabric is in a short story from 1891 by poet and author Rudyard Kipling, who was born in Mumbai and spent a lot of his life in India under colonial rule.Sure, there were plenty of highly feminine girls’ fashions—the Gunne Sax dresses and lacy Lanz nightgowns of my childhood heart’s desire—but many of us wore outfits like those of the “Freaky Friday” girls. Lots of boys had bowl haircuts; girls had Dorothy Hamill haircuts. Turns out, they were the same haircut!
The dungaree started to transcend the realms of manual labour when they were worn by Hollywood royalty, John Wayne, Clint Eastwood and even Judy Garland, turning the overall into a desirable garment. My male schoolmates began wearing Sta-Prest trousers (often taken in by their mum, or me, to turn them from a slim leg into a super-skinny fit), coupled with a Fred Perry shirt or jumper and topped with a boating blazer, Harrington or parka. They’d wear desert boots or Jam shoes, often bought from Shelleys in Carnaby Street.
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During the First and Second World Wars dungarees started to transition into a unisex item of clothing as more and more women began working in factories to aid the war effort. By the late 1940s, dungarees were beginning to be considered a fashionable item rather than just workwear, with stars like Judy Garland even sporting them on the silver screen! Dungarees as Fashionable Items Then again, Mattel’s 1970s line the Honey Hill Bunch was a racially diverse group of girl cloth dolls, most of whom were wearing pants and had accessories ranging from guitars to purses. In America in the 1890s, Levi Strauss invented the first pair of denim overalls, intended to be worn as protective workwear. This style was similar to the dungri workwear worn by Indian farm and ship workers, but made from a more robust denim earning the brand the tagline ‘never rip, never tear.’ A lot of my mates from the Midhurst Detours would also wear kilts over army greens or bondage trousers, an overhang from the punk era. The following is an excerpt from “ Tomboy: The Surprising History and Future of Girls Who Dare to Be Different” (August 2020), by Lisa Selin Davis. Lisa Selin Davis, author of “ Tomboy: The Surprising History and Future of Girls Who Dare to Be Different.”
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