2,5 Meters 98,42" Kitchen Worktop Profile Strip Corner PVC 33mm with Accessories Edging splashback TMW Profiles (Gray Aluminium, End caps (Left + Right))

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Then continued laying the rest in a straight line as above. However, note I didn't go to the very end of the far left as I knew I needed to add trim behind it. So after marking a notch to cut around my upstand (far right), I poured water in the cutter and carefully cut. It's scary on the first go, but I fell in love almost immediately. Then tiled as usual. PREPPING FOR GROUTING You'll find tile adhesive can get everywhere. So it's a good idea to protect your surfaces, such as worktop and sink. Firstly, always use tile spacers when tiling. They allow you to continue ensuring your tiling is level and even throughout. Once I cleaned up all my tiles, it was time to mix the grout. For this, I'm absolutely wearing gloves and eye protection as there's cement in it. And again, speaking from experience 2 years ago, CEMENT BURNS!

First, I measured the gap left under my window sill and deducted a 2mm tile spacer gap. *Note, I could curse whoever installed this window sill as really, it isn't deep enough to hide the edges. So, I do plan to build the sill up later with a deeper lip. It's not often when I hear about grout sealant. In fact, it's only ever been from a handful of my followers who do this for a living. The idea of sealing grout it to doubly make sure it's waterproof and prevent stains.Then I cut my trim roughly down to size, leaving a cm or two extra. And with the remaining trim, I laid my new cut on top as below and drew along it for a visual. If you have any questions, then feel free to drop me a comment below! More Fitting a Kitchen Projects I lined my first tile up with my centre pencil line, ensuring I left a slight gap for the spacer and pressed firmly on the wall. While tiling, it's important to add your adhesive first, then place to trim on top, then continue tiling as normal. CLAMPING THE MITRE CORNER Wet tile cutter like this with diamond blade if you need to cut L-shape tiles (or more than just one straight cut)

You can see above that I'm using a tile adhesive trowel. It should have teeth on it which looks quite notchy. Here, I'm starting where my centre line is, but making sure I only work with enough as I go. Mine probably had about 30 minutes working time before it set.Another tip is to mark with masking tape of which cut tile is which in case your cut was ever so slightly different. TILE AS USUAL I used to dread working with silicone sealant because if applied wrong, it looks very messy and awful. But now I get asked how do I get it so neat! Well, here's how!