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Replacement Synchronous Motor for motorised valves ACL Honeywell Landis Gye Satchwell Sopec Tower DIY Replacement 2-Port 3-Port Valve Failure

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im not good enough with this stuff to do the multimeter thing and even if i figured out what the problem was, id definitely need to get a plumber in to fix it so might as well call him now! One of the wires from the powerhead must be connected (crimped) to one of the new motor wires. The other free wire from the powerhead must be connected to the other wire of the new motor. It doesn’t matter which of the two motor wires is connected to which of the two free powerhead wires as they are polarity free.

Honeywell Actuator Motor for V4043H, V4044C and V4073A Valves – Honeywell Syncron Motor.Only one replacement motor (40002737-003) is required for all modern motorised valves irrespective of body size, pipe connection type or whether 2 or 3 ports. Delivery Time In larger properties, 28mm valves may be used (the 5-wire 3-port V4073A1088 and the 6-wire 2-port V4043H1106). The 28mm V4043H1106 2-port zone valve has a6 th wire, coloured white. This white wire might not be used. In that case it should be made safe electrically.Slide the blunt end of the motor sideways until the flange comes out from the tab holding it down. This can be a bit of a fiddle. The motor then comes free of the valve, held only by the two wires which connect it electrically. These two wires may be blue (in a Honeywell original Synchron motor) or orange (most replacement Synchron motors). Both of these genuine SYNCHRON motors work in Honeywell motorised valves. The motors SYNCHRON make specifically for Honeywell come with two blue wires The Honeywell V4043H1106 28mm 2-port zone valve has 6 wires. Five of these wires are the same as 22mm 2-port valve.Green/yellow is Earth, blue is Neutral, brown is Live (or Line) to the motor, grey and orange are connected to the end switch and form part of a separate circuit.

If you know how to work safely with mains voltage electricity, the valve motor can be tested with a multimeter. With the mains electrical supply turned off and isolated, the resistance across the two motor wires (either both blue or both orange) can be tested. To test correctly, at least one of the two motor wires must be disconnected from the heating wiring circuit.

Synchron valve motors can remain energised and hot for many hours a day, all through the winter. They may eventually fail. A failed Synchron valve motor will prevent a 2-port motorised valve from working. The valve won’t be driven open and the end switch will not be made (connected) so power will not be sent on to the boiler or pump.

When a demand comes from the programmer (via the thermostat), the motor is energised and drives the valve open to allow water to pass. When the valve is fully open, a microswitch is operated in the powerhead, connecting the grey wire to the orange wire. This is called closing the switch. It sounds a bit counter-intuitive, but when a switch is closed it is completing the circuit and allowing current to pass; when the switch is opened it is opening a break in the circuit and stops current from passing. If the powerhead (actuator) can be safely removed from the valve body (see warning above about pre-1985 Honeywell valves) you can try to turn the spindle. You may need a tool unless you have strong fingers. You must also isolate the electrical supply before removing a Honeywell motorised valve powerhead. The electronics in Honeywell motorised valves tend to be quite stable and show relatively few faults but the motor may fail after years of operation. Honeywell use Synchron motors and these are freely available but there are lots of cheap cloned motors out there. These look identical but, instead of the name SYNCHRON, they use the word Synchronous. Honeywell V4073A1039 22mm 3-port mid-position motorised valve showing inlet port AB and outlet ports A and B. This valve can be open to either port A or port B, or to both ports at the same time I have Myson valves but it still worked a treat, a bit cheaper than a new valve and I didn't have to touch the plumbing..That noise and that bump are diagnostic. They tell us that the valve has moved into the mid-position where both Heating and Hot Water ports are open. If you can make a Honeywell 3-port mid-position valve move into all three of those positions, the valve and controls appear to be wired correctly and the valve appears to be working normally. The raised bump or pip on the metal cover of the powerhead or actuator of a Honeywell motorised valve Removing a Honeywell motorised valve powerhead The Honeywell V4073A 3-port valve has five wires. These are blue, green/yellow, white, grey and orange. Note that the grey and orange wires are used differently from the grey and orange wires of the 2-port valve!

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